Different Types of Watercolour Paper
There are so many types of watercolour paper. In turn, they vary in thickness, size, quality and texture. Each one will have its own unique properties. In addition, each will react individually to the application of paint and water on the surface. There are many makes out there from Frisk, Arches, Winsor & Newton, Saunders Waterford and many more. My personal preference is Bockingford *. This is mainly because I am used to how it reacts with the paints. Of course it is always tough to replace a tried and tested favourite!
There are generally three different surfaces to choose from, these are rough, cold pressed (NOT) and hot pressed.
Rough – This is the type of paper to use for a loose style of painting. You will find many landscape artists use this. It actually helps them create interest within their paintings. For instance by dragging a nearly dry brush across the texture of the paper a bumpy, broken effect is created. This is great for landscapes.
Hot Pressed – This is very often a preferred choice for botanical and wildlife artists. The surface means you can add the finest of detail with the smallest of brushes. A very smooth paper for those finer paintings, created, as its name suggests, by running the paper through hot rollers.
Cold Pressed – This paper sort of sits in the middle and has a medium texture and is ideal for those finer marks. However, it has the addition of a slightly textured effect. I do find this better for large washes and is my preferred paper choice
There are generally two different types of watercolour paper used by artists one made from wood pulp and the other made from cotton. Cotton is the most expensive as the excellent fibres give you a lovely surface to work on. Wood pulp papers are usually machine made resulting in a repetitive pattern texture. Whereas the cotton papers are mould made using a cylindrical roller which give the paper a more random but even texture.
There are choices from loose paper which may need stretching if used for large washes to spiral bound. Or my favourite block pads, which are glued all the way around. There is just a small gap where you can slice the paper off from the pad using a palette knife.
This doesn’t refer to the actual size of the paper as that’s another topic! Sizing is the solution which is added to the paper to stop it acting like blotting paper. It thus allows the paint to remain on the surface.
The mid to top range papers have a gelatine added to the mix at the pulp stage, this type of sizing goes all the way through the paper. Whereas, wood pulp papers very often have the sizing added on to the top of the surface after the paper is made.
Weights of Paper
Paper is usually measured in pounds (lbs) or grams per square meter (gsm). 140lb and 300lb weights are the most preferred by artists. The 300lb doesn’t normally need stretching, is much thicker but also much more expensive! The general rule is that any papers under the weight of 200gsm will generally need stretching.
Your paper will need to withstand multiple washes and removal of paint. A good watercolour paper can withstand this sort of brush and liquid abuse. Whereas cheaper end papers can tend to fall apart on the surface.
You would normally start by soaking your paper for a few minutes in a bowl or even a bath tub depending on the paper size. The actual time you do this for requires a bit of guess work. For example, I have soaked an A4 sheet for approximately 4 minutes which worked well. But with all the different types this will vary depending on brand.
There are quite a few ways you can stretch watercolour paper, you can use a commercially made stretcher. Indeed, this works really well by anchoring down the wet paper on all four sides (a good investment). Another method is after wetting the paper to place it down onto a piece of thick board. Next gently use a soaked sponge to lightly take out any bubbles underneath. Finally, tape the paper down with gum tape and add a few staples around the edge. Alternatively you could try making your own paper stretcher.
So there you go, that’s a little something about different types of watercolour paper. I hope it has been useful for you.
At the end of the day I always say ‘buy the best you can afford’ which is the same for the paints you use. Get used to the brand but don’t be afraid to try something new or swap with a friend and see if you prefer it. You never know where your next favourite will come from!
Do you stretch your own papers what method do you use?
Until the next time, keep those brushes wet! Paul
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